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Using the wall for robot alignment is a very helpful navigation technique.

All teams should note that the mat is aligned with the south wall, but
centered between the east and west walls, so that can affect the distances
that the robot needs to travel after alignment.  Tournament tables may be
sized slightly different than your practice tables.

Here's the rule:
Field Setup
Field Mat Placement (p. 8)

STEP 3 – The Mat is smaller than the playing surface by design. Slide and
align it so that there is no gap between the south edge of the Mat and the
south Border Wall, then center the Mat east-west, with equal gaps at left
and right.
It's also in:
Field Maintenance (p.15)

   -

   Field Mat – Make sure the Mat touches the south Border Wall, and is
   centered east to west.


Teams should also note that the first set of Challenge/Project/Game updates
have been posted at
https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.firstlegoleague.org_sites_default_files_Challenge_TRASH-2DTREK_FLL-2520TRASH-2520TREK-2520UPDATES.pdf&d=BQIFaQ&c=eLbWYnpnzycBCgmb7vCI4uqNEB9RSjOdn_5nBEmmeq0&r=k6Oa5GxfBPFMgGjb2r5QIoEOeBZs9xbNIpA0kLw_kFQ&m=auQ3jV-LxhvqNPUBGBrpVekOCInJhZCZaGaJT3UdeGQ&s=hf1FKPD7LeriL_LGm0lvsYQRc0FtoaSTxilN4jBgIZQ&e= 

If you have the FIRST app on your smartphone/tablet, then you should get
notified whenever new updates are posted.

Steve Scherr
Virginia-DC FLL Referee Advisor

On Sun, Aug 30, 2015 at 8:16 PM, Frank Levine <[log in to unmask]>
wrote:

> The concern that I had was that my team likes to back up into the wall to
> square their alignment.  If they practiced on a 2x4, but encountered a 2x3
> that might be a problem (if the plate was too high).  We built our table
> with 2x3's, so we're all set.
>
> FWIW - if you are looking to build a lightweight, portable table, we built
> the "Republic of Pi" table shown in this video:
>
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.youtube.com_watch-3Fv-3D1qbbpkCmQAw-26index-3D5-26list-3DPLNvVpKcZhzomQPurExVcU2S0m282taycF&d=BQIFaQ&c=eLbWYnpnzycBCgmb7vCI4uqNEB9RSjOdn_5nBEmmeq0&r=k6Oa5GxfBPFMgGjb2r5QIoEOeBZs9xbNIpA0kLw_kFQ&m=auQ3jV-LxhvqNPUBGBrpVekOCInJhZCZaGaJT3UdeGQ&s=FHnv1mgEJBToCtzLoxzIMXyy4X2DnVpmPHCsNAI-og0&e= 
> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.youtube.com_watch-3Fv-3D1qbbpkCmQAw-26index-3D5-26list-3DPLNvVpKcZhzomQPurExVcU2S0m282taycF&d=BQMFaQ&c=eLbWYnpnzycBCgmb7vCI4uqNEB9RSjOdn_5nBEmmeq0&r=J5fb0ELkRoh7TzAGYz99sSMvB-c7i4AC0HDT2OVPrww&m=aamshv2W12oLE5wzpznhvZta8v_UCE03jSgMpH6wJbs&s=q81uK1VgfquWNcBEDUswRq0Q8751kS0kRYV8SS_79S0&e=>
>
> Total cost at the Ashburn Home Depot was about $180, and the only tools we
> needed were a circular saw, a drill, and a doweling jig/kit ( which
> included in that $180 figure).  Myself and my assistant built the table
> while the team built the models.  The kids are able to setup the table in
> about 10 minutes and take it down in about 5.
>
> Don't be fooled by their video - Republic of Pi's table is much simpler
> than the "Landroids" one - it requires significantly less woodworking
> knowledge.  If you decide to make one, contact me off-list and I'd be happy
> to offer my advice.
>
> -Frank Levine
>
>
> On Sun, Aug 30, 2015 at 6:22 PM, Swayne, Nick - swaynedd <[log in to unmask]
> > wrote:
>
>> Keep in mind that the tables you will encounter at tournaments are built
>> using standard wood from one of the local home building supply stores.  If
>> your game strategy requires really precise table dimensions, smooth
>> surfaces, and a perfectly level field – you’ll be disappointed.  The key to
>> a predictable robot performance is to build the robot with adequate
>> sensors, guides, etc – and design/program it to be durable, resilient, and
>> fault tolerant – and able to perform in a variety of lighting situations.
>>
>> From: "[log in to unmask]" <[log in to unmask]> on
>> behalf of Monica Kumar <[log in to unmask]>
>> Reply-To: Monica Kumar <[log in to unmask]>
>> Date: Saturday, August 29, 2015 at 11:20 PM
>> To: vadcfll <[log in to unmask]>
>>
>> Subject: Re: [VADCFLL-L] 2x3 or 2x4 for the Table
>>
>> Indeed, the dimensions of a 2x4 stud is ~1.5” x 3.5” and a 2x3 stud is
>> ~1.5” x 2.5”
>>
>> We went looking for 2x3 studs at Home Depot, and the quality of the cuts
>> was pretty poor. So we bought 2x6’s (~ 1.5” x 5.5”), which were better
>> quality, and ripped them into two 1.5” x 2.75” boards.
>>
>> Given that the objective is to end up with a 45” x 93” work surface
>> (±1/8” in each dimension) with 3” tall fence (±1/2”) all around — if I were
>> to do this again, I would use 2 pieces of 3/4” ply, each 3” x 96” x 3/4”,
>> glued together, to create the long borders (make two of these). And use 2
>> pieces of 3/4” ply, each 3” x 45” x 3/4”, glued together, to create the
>> short borders (again, make two). Use a router to round in the top inner and
>> outer edges of the borders.
>>
>> The results should be much nicer than what we can achieve with Home Depot
>> studs!
>>
>>
>>
>> On Aug 28, 2015, at 7:01 AM, SweetMotherOfPork <
>> [log in to unmask]> wrote:
>>
>> 2x4 actual dimensions are 1.5x3.5...
>>
>> Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone.
>> *From: *Russ Brasser
>> *Sent: *Friday, August 28, 2015 05:12
>> *To: *[log in to unmask]
>> *Reply To: *Russ Brasser
>> *Subject: *Re: [VADCFLL-L] 2x3 or 2x4 for the Table
>>
>> I have seen 2x4s used for every tournament I've been to.
>>
>> -Russ
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Aug 28, 2015, at 1:14 AM, Frank Levine <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
>>
>> Hi All,
>>   I noticed that the official instructions for a table call for 2x3's,
>> but the max allowable height of the walls is 3" +/- .5".  An inch seems
>> like quite a bit of variance... do the tables at the tournaments use 2x3's
>> or 2x4's?  Both appear to be legal, but I'd like to have our table be as
>> close to what we're going to encounter at the tournament, especially if my
>> team decides to use the walls as guides or for some other reason.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Frank Levine
>>
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>
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